Arriving in Whyalla, it"s easy to observe the cuttlefish as either a snorkeller or diver, with the cephalopods found in just 2-6m of water, right off the shore. While the water is calm, it"s not warm. "You"ve got to really dress for the occasion," laughed Bramley. With ocean temperatures hovering around 10-16C, I came prepared with a thick wetsuit, hood, gloves and booties. Even still, the chill hit me like a ton of bricks – but once I was in the water, I had a front-row ticket to the most incredible show in town.