Warburton, the first settlement of any size in the 550km from Laverton, felt like a metropolis, and its Tjulyuru Art Centre was filled with canvases of rare beauty by artists from the Ngaanyatjarra people. In town, daytime ennui evaporated with the heat and locals came out to reclaim their streets at dusk. At the Eider Creek Crossing 3km from town, river red gum trees formed what seemed like an honour guard to the deep desert that lay beyond.